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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.